Okayama barazushi

Step 1: Rinse the 16 oz Japanese short-grain rice until the water runs almost clear and drain. Put it in a pan with the 2 ¼ cups water and ⅛ oz kombu (dried kelp) and soak for 20 minutes while you prepare the vegetables.

Step 2: Lift the 4 dried shiitake mushrooms from their water (keep 150 ml of it), cut off the stems and slice thinly. Put them in a small pan with the 1 carrot, the saved soaking water, 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 ½ tbsp sugar and 1 tbsp mirin. Mirin adds a little alcohol, most of which cooks off; for alcohol-free, use 1 extra teaspoon of sugar instead.

Step 3: Simmer the vegetables over a medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, until the liquid has almost gone and the carrot is tender. Leave to cool.

Step 4: In another small pan, simmer the 3 ½ oz lotus root slices in 100 ml water with the 2 tbsp rice vinegar, for the lotus root and a pinch of the sugar for 3 minutes, until crisp-tender and white. Drain.

Step 5: Cook the rice: remove the kombu, bring to the boil, cover, cook over the lowest heat for 13 minutes, then rest off the heat, covered, for 10 minutes.

Step 6: While the rice cooks, stir the ¼ cup rice vinegar, 3 tbsp sugar and 1 ½ tsp salt together in a jug until dissolved.

Step 7: Boil the 12 raw king prawns, peeled with tails on in salted water for 2 minutes, until pink all over and opaque right through. Lift out with a slotted spoon.

Step 8: Drop the 5 ½ oz cleaned squid tubes rings into the same water for 1 minute, just until they turn opaque white and firm slightly. Drain. Overcooked squid turns rubbery, so do not leave it longer.

Step 9: Blanch the 12 mangetout for 1 minute, cool in cold water and slice on the diagonal.

Step 10: For the egg threads, beat the 3 eggs with the 1 tsp sugar and a pinch of salt. Wipe a non-stick frying pan with the 1 tsp vegetable oil and heat over a medium-low heat. Pour in a thin layer, tilting the pan, and cook for 1 minute until set, then flip for 10 seconds. Repeat to make 3 or 4 thin omelettes.

Step 11: Roll the omelettes up and slice very thinly into threads.

Step 12: Tip the hot rice into a large wide bowl or wooden tub. Pour the vinegar mixture over a spatula so it spreads evenly. Common mistake: stirring and mashing the rice. Use a slicing and folding motion only, or the grains break and the rice turns sticky and pasty.

Step 13: Keep folding while you fan the rice with a piece of card for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is glossy and has cooled to about body temperature.

Step 14: Fold the simmered shiitake and carrot evenly through the rice and spread it on a large platter.

Step 15: Scatter the egg threads over the rice, then arrange the prawns, squid, lotus root, 3 ½ oz ready-made vinegared mackerel (shime saba) (if using) and mangetout on top. Add 1 oz pickled sushi ginger on the side.

Step 16: Serve at room temperature on the day it is made. Keep it covered in a cool place for up to 4 hours; leftovers go in the fridge and should be eaten the next day.