Inarizushi

Step 1: Rinse 10 ½ oz Japanese short-grain rice in several changes of cold water until it runs almost clear, drain for 15 minutes, then cook with 1 ½ cups water in a rice cooker or covered pan (12 minutes on low after boiling, then 10 minutes resting off the heat).

Step 2: Roll a chopstick over each 6 aburaage (thin fried tofu sheets) sheet, then cut each in half to make 12 squares. Gently ease each half open into a pocket with your thumbs.

Step 3: Put the pockets in a pan of boiling water for 1 minute to remove excess oil, then drain and press lightly.

Step 4: Bring 1 cup kombu-shiitake dashi, 3 tbsp sugar, 2 ½ tbsp soy sauce and 1 tbsp mirin to a simmer in a wide pan. Add the pouches, cover with a drop-lid and simmer over a low heat for 12–15 minutes, until most of the liquid is absorbed and they are a rich brown. Cool in the pan.

Step 5: Stir 3 tbsp rice vinegar, 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tsp salt together until dissolved.

Step 6: Tip the hot rice into a wide bowl, sprinkle over the vinegar mix and cut it through with a rice paddle while fanning, until the rice is glossy and at body temperature. Fold in 2 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds.

Step 7: With damp hands, shape the rice into 12 loose ovals, about 35 g each.

Step 8: Lift each pouch from the pan and press gently so it isn't dripping. Slip a rice oval inside, push it into the corners and fold the open edges over to close, or leave them open for a 'Kansai-style' look. Serve with 1 oz pickled ginger (gari), at room temperature, within a day.