Bhavnagari gathiya

Step 1: In a wide bowl, beat ¼ cup groundnut oil, ½ cup warm water, ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda and 1 tsp salt with your hand or a whisk for 3–4 minutes until the mixture turns pale and frothy.

Step 2: Add 10 ½ oz coarse besan (gathiya or bhavnagari gram flour), 1 tsp ajwain (carom seeds), 1 ½ tsp black peppercorns and ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing) and mix to a soft, sticky dough that you can just pick up. Knead it with oiled knuckles for 2 minutes until smooth.

Step 3: Pour 4 ¼ cups groundnut oil into a wide, heavy kadai so it is no more than a third full and heat to 350°F. A pinch of dough should rise to the top at once and fizz steadily. Do not leave the oil while it is hot.

Step 4: Hold an oiled gathiya jharo over the oil and rub a fist-sized lump of dough through the holes with your palm, so thick ropes drop into the oil. Or press through the largest disc of a sev press.

Step 5: Fry for 3–4 minutes, turning, until light golden and the vigorous bubbling dies down to small bubbles, which tells you the moisture has gone. Lift out and drain.

Step 6: Cool completely; they crisp further as they cool. Break into finger lengths and store airtight for up to 3 weeks.