Surti alu puri

Step 1: Drain the soaked 7 oz dried white peas (vatana) and simmer with 4 ¼ cups water, 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp ground turmeric (or pressure-cook for 4 whistles) until very soft and some peas crush easily.

Step 2: Heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil in a pan, add 1 tsp cumin seeds and ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing), then 2 tsp garlic-green chilli paste and fry for 30 seconds. Add 1 ½ tsp red chilli powder and 1 tsp garam masala, stir, then tip in the peas with their liquid.

Step 3: Simmer for 10 minutes, mashing about a third of the peas against the pan so the ragda thickens to a loose, pourable stew. Add 1 tbsp lemon juice. Keep hot.

Step 4: Meanwhile mix 5 ½ oz plain flour (maida), 2 tbsp fine semolina, ½ tsp salt and 2 tbsp sunflower oil, then add ¼ cup water gradually to make a stiff, smooth dough. Rest 10 minutes.

Step 5: Roll the dough thinly (about 2 mm) and cut into 6 cm rounds. Prick each one all over with a fork so it stays flat.

Step 6: Pour 3 ¼ cups sunflower oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan, no more than a third of its depth, and heat over medium heat to 350°F on a thermometer. No thermometer? A scrap of dough should rise in about 3 seconds with steady bubbles. Stay at the stove the whole time the oil is hot and keep the handle turned inwards.

Step 7: Fry the puris in batches over medium heat, pressing them gently under the oil, until golden, crisp and the bubbling has died down. Drain and cool.

Step 8: To serve, arrange 8–10 puris on each plate and ladle hot ragda over them. Top with 1 onion, 4 tbsp green coriander chutney, 4 tbsp date and tamarind chutney, a pinch of 1 tsp chaat masala, a heap of 2 ⅛ oz fine sev and 3 tbsp fresh coriander. Eat at once.