Skradinski rižot

Step 1: Heat the 3 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy pot over a medium heat and cook the 3 onions with a pinch of the 1 ½ tsp salt for 20 minutes, stirring often, until very soft and pale gold.

Step 2: Add the 1 ¾ lb boneless veal shoulder or shin and 1 carrot and cook for 10 minutes, turning, until the meat is no longer pink on the outside.

Step 3: Add the 1 bay leaf, 2 cloves, 1 pinch grated nutmeg, ¾ tsp black pepper, the rest of the salt and 1 litre of the hot 4 ¼ cups hot beef or chicken stock. Cover and simmer over a very low heat for 3 hours, stirring every 20 minutes and adding a ladle of stock if it catches.

Step 4: Fish out the bay leaf and cloves. Shred the veal with two forks in the pot; it should fall into fine threads with no resistance.

Step 5: Stir in the 14 oz risotto rice (arborio or carnaroli) and cook for 2 minutes, until coated and glossy.

Step 6: Add the remaining 4 ¼ cups hot beef or chicken stock a ladle at a time over a low heat, stirring, for about 40 minutes, until the rice is very soft and the risotto is creamy and flows slowly when spooned.

Step 7: Take off the heat, beat in the 1 ⅜ oz unsalted butter and half the 1 oz finely grated hard cheese (Paški sir or parmesan-style), cover and rest for 3 minutes. Serve with the rest of the cheese and ⅓ oz fresh parsley.