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Kannimanga achar

കണ്ണിമാങ്ങ അച്ചാർ: whole baby mangoes cured in salt for a week, then matured in a raw mustard-chilli brine

In central Kerala, around Thrissur and Kottayam, families watch the mango trees in January and February and pick the tiniest fruit, no bigger than a thumb joint, before the stone hardens. These kannimanga are salted whole in a tall ceramic bharani, left until shrivelled in their own brine, then mixed with freshly ground raw mustard, Kashmiri chilli and hing and left to mature for three or four weeks. This older, oil-free style keeps the mangoes crunchy and the brine thick, red and sinus-clearing from the raw mustard. The flavour is salty, sour and fiercely pungent; one mango and a spoon of brine is enough for a whole bowl of kanji (rice gruel) or curd rice. The common mistake is using water that has not been boiled and cooled, which brings in microbes and turns the brine slimy. It is ready when the mangoes are wrinkled but crisp and the brine tastes mellow rather than raw. Salt is high, about 20 g per 100 g of mango, and the fruit is very acidic; kept fully submerged in a dry jar it lasts a year in a cool place. Abroad, any tiny, hard green mango with a soft stone works. Chef's tip: keep a short stalk on each mango; it stops brine seeping in and softening the fruit.
Total time
45 min
Difficulty
medium
Serves
24
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Ingredients

Serves24

For the salting

For the masala

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Method

0/8 done
  1. Step 1: Prepare the jar: wash jar and lid in hot soapy water, rinse well, then stand the jar upside down in a 250°F oven for 10 minutes (or boil jar and lid for 10 minutes and let them dry upside down). Let it cool completely; jar, lid, bowls and spoons must be bone dry, because a single drop of water is the usual reason a pickle goes mouldy.

  2. Step 2: Wash the 1 ⅛ lb tender baby mangoes (kannimanga) gently, keeping the stalks, and dry them completely on a cloth for 2–3 hours. Discard any that are bruised or split.

    10 min
  3. Step 3: Layer the mangoes and 3 ½ oz coarse sea salt in the dry jar, close, and shake well. Leave for 7–10 days, shaking twice a day, until the mangoes are wrinkled and sitting in their own salty brine.

  4. Step 4: Grind 3 tbsp black mustard seeds to a fine powder in a dry grinder. Mix with 4 tbsp Kashmiri chilli powder, 1 tbsp hot red chilli powder and 1 tsp gluten-free asafoetida.

    5 min
  5. Step 5: Bring 1 cup water to the boil, cool completely, then grind or whisk it with the spice mix and some of the brine from the jar to a smooth, pourable paste.

    5 min
  6. Step 6: Pour the paste over the mangoes in the jar and mix with a dry spoon until every mango is coated; the brine must cover them. Float 2 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil on top if using.

    3 min
  7. Step 7: Close and leave in a cool, dark place for 3–4 weeks, shaking the jar every few days, until the brine is thick and red and tastes mellow.

  8. Step 8: Keep the mangoes submerged at all times and use a dry spoon. It keeps up to a year in a cool place. A thin white film is harmless and can be skimmed; throw it away if you see fuzzy, coloured mould, the brine turns slimy or it smells rotten.

Nutrition per serving

Calories
15 kcal
Protein
1 g
Carbs
2 g
Fat
0 g
Fibre
1 g

Nutrition values are estimates.

K
Recipe by

KrazyBadal

All recipes by this chef →

Good to know

How long does kannimanga achar take?
About 45 minutes in total: 40 minutes to prepare and 5 minutes to cook.
How many people does it serve?
24 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
Is it vegan?
Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
Is it gluten free?
Yes, as written. Check the labels on stock, sauces and spice mixes, which sometimes contain gluten.
Is it very spicy?
It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
Can I make it ahead?
Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
What can I use instead of tender baby mangoes (kannimanga)?
Tinned mango pulp, same weight.
What can I use instead of black mustard seeds?
Cumin seeds, same amount (different flavour, same crackle).

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