Jiaodong hua bobo (festive flower buns)

Step 1: Mix 2 ¼ lb plain flour, ¼ oz instant dried yeast and 1 ⅜ oz sugar in a large bowl, then stir in 2 cups lukewarm water a little at a time until you have a shaggy, quite dry dough.

Step 2: Knead on the worktop for 15 minutes, leaning your weight into it, until the dough is very smooth, firm and no longer sticks. Common mistake: adding extra water to make kneading easier; a soft dough spreads and loses its shape when steamed.

Step 3: Cover and leave somewhere warm for 60–90 minutes, until roughly doubled and a floured finger hole stays put.

Step 4: Tip the dough out and knead again for 5 minutes, dusting with flour, until every air pocket is gone and a cut surface looks tight and even with no holes.

Step 5: Divide into 6 equal pieces. Roll 3 into smooth domes, tucking the edges underneath, then snip a petal pattern into the tops with scissors and press 12 dried red dates (jujubes) into the cuts to make flowers.

Step 6: Shape the other 3 pieces into fish: roll an oval, pinch a tail at one end, mark scales with the edge of a spoon and fins with a knife, and set 12 black beans or black sesame seeds in place for eyes. Press 12 dried red dates (jujubes) along the backs.

Step 7: Dot the buns with 1 tsp red food colouring or beetroot juice on a chopstick if you like. Set them on squares of baking paper in a cold steamer with 5 cm space between them, cover and leave for 25–30 minutes, until they look slightly puffed and spring back slowly when pressed.

Step 8: Put the steamer over a pan of cold water, bring to the boil over a high heat, then turn to medium and steam for 30 minutes, until the buns are glossy and a skewer comes out clean.

Step 9: Turn off the heat and leave the lid on for 5 minutes before lifting it, so the buns do not wrinkle as they meet cold air. Cool on a rack, then wrap and freeze for up to 2 months; re-steam from frozen for 15 minutes.