Gobhi pakora

Step 1: Bring a pan of water to the boil with 1 tsp salt, add 1 ⅛ lb cauliflower and blanch for 2 minutes, just until the stalks lose their raw crunch. Drain and spread on a cloth to steam dry; wet florets make the batter slide off.

Step 2: In a bowl mix 4 oz besan (gram flour), 2 tbsp rice flour, 1 tsp ajwain (carom seeds), 1 tsp red chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ¼ tsp asafoetida (hing), 2 green chillies, 1 tsp fresh ginger, 2 tbsp fresh coriander and 1 tsp salt.

Step 3: Whisk in ¾ cup cold water a little at a time to a thick batter that coats a spoon and drops off slowly in a ribbon. It should not run off like cream.

Step 4: Pour 3 ¼ cups sunflower or mustard oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan so it is no more than a third full and heat over medium-high to 350°F on a thermometer. No thermometer? Drop in a 2 cm cube of bread: it should sizzle at once and turn golden in about 60 seconds. Stay at the stove the whole time the oil is hot and keep children and pets away.

Step 5: Turn the florets in the batter so every crevice is coated, then lower 6–8 into the oil one by one, without crowding. They should sizzle loudly and rise to the top within a few seconds.

Step 6: Fry, turning, until deep golden and crisp, 4–5 minutes per batch. The sizzling quietens and turns to a soft crackle when they are done; a pakora that sounds wet needs another minute.

Step 7: Lift out with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper and keep frying the rest, letting the oil come back to temperature between batches. Turn off the heat as soon as you finish.

Step 8: Sprinkle with 1 tsp chaat masala and serve hot with ½ cup green chutney and tea.