Ciorbă de pește lipovenească

Step 1: Put the 1 ¾ lb fish frames, tails and trimmings (from the fish below or from the fishmonger), 10 ½ cups cold water, 1 onion, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves and 2 tsp salt in a large pot. Bring to the boil, skim, then simmer gently for 25 minutes.

Step 2: Strain the stock through a fine sieve lined with a cloth into a clean pot, pressing lightly. Discard the solids.

Step 3: Bring the stock back to a simmer, add the 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root or parsnip, 1 red pepper and 10 ½ oz potatoes and cook for 12 minutes, until the potatoes are nearly tender.

Step 4: Add the 3 ripe tomatoes and simmer for 3 minutes, until they start to break down.

Step 5: Lower in the 2 ⅝ lb mixed river fish (carp, pike, zander, catfish), cleaned, firmest pieces (catfish, carp) first and delicate pike or zander a minute later. Simmer very gently for 8–10 minutes, shaking the pot instead of stirring, until the fish is opaque all the way through and flakes easily.

Step 6: Sharpen with the 3 tbsp lemon juice or borș to taste and scatter with ½ oz fresh lovage or parsley.

Step 7: Lift the fish onto a warm platter and serve it with the crushed 6 cloves garlic sauce and 6 fresh hot pepper, with the broth and vegetables in bowls alongside.