Brasato al Barolo

Step 1: Put 3 ⅛ lb beef chuck or brisket in a snug non-metallic bowl with 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 stalk celery, 3 garlic, 2 bay leaves, 1 sprig rosemary, 3 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 tsp black peppercorns. Pour over 3 ¼ cups full-bodied dry red wine (nebbiolo) so the meat is covered, cover the bowl and marinate in the fridge for 12–24 hours, turning once.

Step 2: Lift out the beef and pat it very dry with kitchen paper. Strain the marinade, keeping the wine and the vegetables separately; pick out the cinnamon and the cloves if you can find them.

Step 3: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a heavy casserole over a medium-high heat. Season the beef with 1 ½ tsp salt and brown it on all sides until deep mahogany. Don't rush this or crowd the pot: grey, steamed meat is the usual reason brasato tastes flat.

Step 4: Add the drained vegetables and cook for 8 minutes over a medium heat, stirring, until softened and starting to colour.

Step 5: Pour in the strained wine, bring to the boil and let it bubble for 5 minutes. Turn the heat to very low, cover with a lid slightly ajar and simmer gently.

Step 6: Braise for about 3 hours, turning the meat every 45 minutes and adding a little 1 cup beef stock if the liquid drops below a third of the way up the meat. It is done when a fork slides in with no resistance and the meat is fork-tender.

Step 7: Lift out the beef, cover it and rest for 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and rosemary stalk, then blend the vegetables and liquid until smooth.

Step 8: Boil the sauce for a few minutes if needed, until it is glossy and coats the back of a spoon; taste for salt.

Step 9: Remove the string, slice the beef 1 cm thick across the grain and serve with the hot sauce spooned over.