Ajma na pan na bhajiya

Step 1: Whisk 3 ½ oz besan (gram flour), 1 tbsp rice flour, 1 tsp red chilli powder, ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ¼ tsp gluten-free asafoetida (hing), 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste and ¾ tsp salt with ½ cup water into a smooth batter, like pouring cream. Rest 5 minutes.

Step 2: Pour 3 ¼ cups sunflower or groundnut oil into a heavy kadai or deep pan, no more than a third of its depth, and heat over medium heat to 350°F on a thermometer. No thermometer? A drop of batter should rise to the surface within a couple of seconds, sizzling. Stay at the stove the whole time the oil is hot and keep the handle turned inwards.

Step 3: Whisk 1 pinch bicarbonate of soda into the batter. Holding one of the 24 fresh ajwain leaves (Indian borage) by its stalk, dip it in, let the excess drip off and slide it into the oil.

Step 4: Fry 5–6 at a time, turning once, until golden and crisp and the bubbling around them has calmed. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 5: Sprinkle with ½ tsp chaat masala and serve hot with tea.