Warabimochi

Step 1: Make the syrup: simmer 1 ¾ oz kokuto (Okinawan brown sugar) or dark muscovado and 3 ½ tbsp water in a small pan over low heat for 5 minutes until slightly thickened, like maple syrup. Cool. It thickens more as it cools.

Step 2: Mix 4 tbsp kinako (roasted soybean flour), 1 tbsp sugar and 1 pinch salt. Spread half on a tray or plate.

Step 3: In a non-stick pan, whisk 1 ¾ oz warabi starch or warabimochi-ko, 1 ⅜ oz sugar and 1 cup water until there are no lumps. Set over medium heat and stir constantly with a wooden spatula.

Step 4: After 3–4 minutes, cloudy lumps appear and it quickly turns into a thick, sticky mass. Lower the heat and keep beating it hard against the side of the pan for 2–3 minutes more until the whole mass is clear and very elastic.

Step 5: Common mistake: stopping as soon as it thickens. White, cloudy patches mean raw starch, which tastes floury and doesn't wobble. Keep going until it's glassy all through.

Step 6: Scrape the hot jelly onto the kinako, dust the top with more kinako and let it cool for 10 minutes. Cut into 2 cm pieces with a wet knife or spatula and toss in the rest of the kinako.

Step 7: Chill for 20–30 minutes at most, then serve in small bowls with 1 ¾ oz kokuto (Okinawan brown sugar) or dark muscovado syrup drizzled over. Eat the same day; it turns white and hard if left in the fridge too long.