Vegetarian char kway teow

Step 1: If the 10 ½ oz fresh flat rice noodles (kway teow) is cold from the fridge, microwave it for 30 seconds or pour over hot water and drain, so the strands loosen without breaking. Rinse 3 ½ oz fresh yellow wheat noodles briefly under hot water and drain.

Step 2: Mix 2 tbsp dark sweet soy sauce (kecap manis), 1 tbsp light soy sauce and 1 tbsp sambal chilli paste in a small bowl. Have everything ready next to the stove; the cooking takes minutes.

Step 3: Heat a wok or large frying pan over the highest heat until it smokes. Add 3 tbsp vegetable oil, then 4 garlic cloves, and stir for 10–15 seconds until pale golden; don't let it burn.

Step 4: Add 2 ⅞ oz fried tofu puffs and both noodles and toss for 1 minute. Pour the sauce around the edge of the wok so it sizzles and caramelises, then toss until every strand is glossy and dark brown.

Step 5: Push the noodles to one side, crack in 2 eggs and scramble them for 20 seconds until half set, then fold them through. A common mistake is constantly stirring: let the noodles sit against the hot wok for 20–30 seconds between tosses so they char in spots.

Step 6: Add 5 ½ oz beansprouts and 1 handful garlic chives and toss for 30–60 seconds, until the chives wilt but the sprouts are still crunchy. Season with ¼ tsp ground white pepper and serve at once, with extra sambal on the side.