Ukrainian borscht

Step 1: Bring 8 ¼ cups vegetable stock to the boil in a large pot (at least 4 litres) with 2 bay leaves. Add 14 oz potatoes and simmer over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until the edges just soften.

Step 2: Meanwhile heat 3 tbsp sunflower oil in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 1 onion for 5 minutes until soft and translucent, then add 1 carrot and 1 red pepper and cook for 4 minutes more, until the carrot smells sweet.

Step 3: Add 1 ⅛ lb raw beetroot, 1 tbsp white wine vinegar and 1 tsp sugar to the pan and stir well. Cook for 8–10 minutes over a medium-low heat, stirring now and then, until the beetroot is soft and glossy and the pan smells earthy and sweet. Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste and cook 2 minutes more.

Step 4: Add 12 ½ oz white cabbage to the pot and simmer for 8–10 minutes, until it is tender but still has a little bite.

Step 5: Tip the beetroot mixture and 8 ½ oz cooked white beans into the pot. Bring back to a gentle simmer over a low heat and cook for 5 minutes. Common mistake: boiling hard or for a long time once the beetroot is in; the colour turns from ruby to brownish orange. Keep it barely bubbling.

Step 6: Stir in 3 cloves garlic, 2 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper, then taste. A good borshch is sweet, sour and savoury at once: add a little more vinegar or sugar to balance it. Turn off the heat, add 3 tbsp dill and remove the bay leaves.

Step 7: Cover and leave to stand for 15–20 minutes before serving so the flavours settle. Ladle into bowls and top each with a spoon of 6 tbsp sour cream (smetana). It keeps 3 days in the fridge and improves overnight.