Tagliatelle al ragù

Step 1: In a heavy casserole over a medium heat, melt 1 oz butter with 2 tbsp olive oil and fry 3 ½ oz pancetta until its fat runs and it starts to colour.

Step 2: Add 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 stalk celery and cook gently, stirring often, until soft and sweet but not browned.

Step 3: Turn the heat up to medium-high and add 14 oz beef mince and 7 oz pork mince in handfuls, breaking them up with a wooden spoon. Don't tip it all in at once and stir constantly: give it room so it fries rather than stews grey. Cook until all the meat has lost its pink colour and starts to crackle and brown (well above 160°F).

Step 4: Pour in ¾ cup dry white wine and let it bubble, scraping the base of the pan, until it has completely evaporated.

Step 5: Stir in 1 tbsp tomato paste for a minute, then add ¾ cup tomato passata and half of 1 cup beef stock. Bring to a bare simmer.

Step 6: Turn the heat to its lowest, half-cover and cook for about 2½ hours, stirring every 20–30 minutes. Add the rest of 1 cup beef stock a ladle at a time whenever it looks dry. Only the odd bubble should break the surface.

Step 7: Stir in ¾ cup whole milk and cook for 15 minutes more, uncovered, until absorbed and the ragù is thick, glossy and rust-brown. Season with 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper. Skim off some of the fat if you like.

Step 8: Bring a large pot of water to the boil with 1 tbsp salt and cook 1 ⅛ lb egg tagliatelle until just tender: 2–3 minutes for fresh, about 7 for dried. Keep a little cooking water.

Step 9: Drain and toss the tagliatelle in a warm pan with about two-thirds of the ragù and a splash of cooking water, until every ribbon is coated. Serve with the rest spooned on top and 2 ⅛ oz parmigiano reggiano at the table.