Solyanka

Step 1: Rinse 1 ⅓ lb beef shin on the bone, put it in a large pot with 10 ½ cups cold water and bring to the boil over a high heat. For the first 5 minutes skim off the grey foam that rises, so the broth stays clear.

Step 2: Add 2 bay leaves and 6 black peppercorns, turn the heat down so the surface barely trembles and simmer, partly covered, for 1 hour 30 minutes, until the beef pulls apart easily with a fork.

Step 3: Lift out the beef and leave it to cool a little. Strain the broth into a clean pot; you need about 2 litres, so top up with water if needed. Pull the meat off the bone, cut it into small strips and throw away the bone, gristle and spices.

Step 4: While the broth simmers, heat 2 tbsp sunflower oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Fry 2 onions for 7–8 minutes, until soft and light gold, then add 1 carrot and cook for 3 minutes more.

Step 5: Stir in 2 tbsp tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, until it darkens to brick red. Add 4 dill pickles (salt-brined cucumbers) and fry for 5 minutes, stirring, until they soften and smell sharp.

Step 6: Bring the broth back to the boil. Add the fried vegetables, the shredded beef, 7 oz smoked sausage (kolbasa) and 5 ½ oz cooked ham, and simmer for 10 minutes so the smoky meats flavour the soup and are piping hot all the way through.

Step 7: Pour in ¾ cup pickle brine and add 2 tbsp capers and 2 ⅞ oz pitted black olives. Simmer for 5 minutes, then taste and only now add salt if it needs it; often it needs none.

Step 8: Take the pot off the heat, cover and leave for 10 minutes so the flavours settle.

Step 9: Ladle into bowls and put a slice of 1 lemon, a spoon of 6 tbsp sour cream and a pinch of ⅓ oz fresh dill on each. Cool leftovers within 2 hours, keep them covered in the fridge for up to 3 days and bring back to a full boil before serving.