Bak kut teh (Singapore peppery style)

Step 1: Put 2 ¼ lb meaty pork spare ribs in a large pot of cold water, bring to the boil and blanch for 5 minutes, until a grey scum rises.

Step 2: Drain the ribs, rinse each piece under the tap to wash off the scum and scrub out the pot. This is what keeps the broth clear.

Step 3: Toast 2 tbsp white peppercorns and 1 tsp black peppercorns in a dry pan over a medium-low heat for 1 minute, shaking, until they smell warm and spicy. Tie them in a spice bag or square of muslin.

Step 4: Return the ribs to the clean pot with 2.5 litres of fresh water, 2 garlic bulbs, the pepper bag and ⅓ oz rock sugar. Bring slowly to the boil over a medium heat.

Step 5: Turn the heat to low so the surface barely trembles. Simmer, partly covered, skimming off any foam, until the meat is tender and starts to shrink back from the bone; it will be far past 160°F by then.

Step 6: Season with 2 tsp salt and 1 tbsp gluten-free light soy sauce. Taste: the broth should be clean, garlicky and sharply peppery; add more crushed white pepper if you want more bite.

Step 7: Mix 4 tbsp gluten-free dark soy sauce with 2 red chillies in small dishes for dipping.

Step 8: Ladle the ribs, a few soft garlic cloves and plenty of broth into bowls and scatter with 1 tbsp fried garlic and 1 handful coriander leaves. Serve with 4 bowls cooked jasmine rice and 2 youtiao (fried dough sticks) for dunking. Hawkers top bowls up with hot broth, so keep the pot simmering for refills.