Sichuan pao cai (brine pickles)

Step 1: Bring 6 ¼ cups water to the boil with 2 ⅛ oz coarse salt, ½ oz rock sugar, 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns and 1 star anise, stirring until dissolved. Leave to cool completely; warm brine makes soft pickles.

Step 2: Wash 10 ½ oz white cabbage, 10 ½ oz daikon radish, 2 carrots, 6 fresh red chillies and 3 ½ oz green beans if using, then spread them on a rack or tea towel for 2–3 hours until the surfaces are dry and slightly wilted.

Step 3: Scald a 2-litre glass or ceramic jar and its lid with boiling water and let it air-dry. It must be completely clean and free of oil.

Step 4: Pack 1 ⅜ oz fresh ginger and the vegetables into the jar and pour over the cold brine so everything is covered by at least 2 cm. Weigh the vegetables down with a small clean plate or a zip bag filled with brine.

Step 5: Close the lid loosely (or fill the water channel if your jar has one) and leave at cool room temperature, out of sunlight. After 2 days you will see small bubbles; taste from day 3 with clean chopsticks. It is ready when the vegetables are sour and crisp, usually in 3–5 days.

Step 6: Move the jar to the fridge to slow the ferment; it keeps for a month. If a thin white film forms on top, skim it off; if the brine turns slimy or smells rotten rather than sour, throw it away. Top up with fresh vegetables and a spoon of salt to keep the brine going.