Tornado potato

Step 1: Push one of 4 long wooden skewers through the length of each of 4 medium potatoes, right through the centre.

Step 2: With a small sharp knife held at a slight angle, cut down to the skewer and turn the potato slowly against the blade, so you cut a continuous spiral about 5 mm thick from one end to the other.

Step 3: Gently slide the spiral apart along the skewer, leaving 1–2 cm between each turn. Rinse in cold water for 5 minutes to wash off the starch, then pat very dry.

Step 4: Pour 6 ¼ cups vegetable oil into a wide, deep, heavy pan or wok that the skewers fit in so it comes no more than a third of the way up the sides, and heat it to 350°F. Use a thermometer, or test with a cube of bread: it should brown in about 60 seconds. Never leave the hot oil unattended.

Step 5: Fry one or two potatoes at a time for 5–6 minutes, turning, until deep golden and crisp right into the centre of the spiral. Common mistake: frying too many at once; the oil cools and the potatoes go greasy.

Step 6: Mix 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp smoked paprika, 1 tsp garlic powder, ½ tsp onion powder, 1 tsp sugar and ½ tsp chilli flakes if using. Drain the potatoes briefly on kitchen paper and dust all over while hot.