Safed maas

Step 1: Heat 4 tbsp ghee in a heavy pot over a medium-low heat. Add 6 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 ⅝ in cinnamon stick and 2 bay leaves and stir for 30 seconds, without letting them darken.

Step 2: Add 1 onion and cook gently for 6–8 minutes, until soft and translucent but not coloured.

Step 3: Add 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste and 3 green chillies and stir for 1 minute, until the raw smell goes.

Step 4: Add 2 ¼ lb bone-in mutton (goat) or lamb and 1 ½ tsp salt and cook over a medium-low heat for 10 minutes, turning, just until the meat turns opaque all over. Don't try to brown it.

Step 5: Pour in 2 cups hot water, bring to a gentle boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 60–70 minutes, until the meat is tender and comes away from the bone easily. Add a splash more hot water if it gets dry.

Step 6: Meanwhile blend the drained 1 ¾ oz cashew nuts and ⅞ oz blanched almonds with 7 oz plain yogurt to a completely smooth, thick paste.

Step 7: Turn the heat to its lowest and stir in the nut-yogurt paste and 1 tsp ground white pepper. Simmer uncovered for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the raw nut taste has gone and the gravy is thick. Common mistake: boiling it hard after the yogurt goes in; it splits and the gravy turns grainy.

Step 8: Stir in ½ cup single cream and ½ tsp ground green cardamom and warm through for 2–3 minutes without boiling. Add ½ tsp kewra water if using.

Step 9: Rest for 5 minutes, scatter with 1 tbsp almond slivers and serve with rotis or saffron pulao.