Rosquillas de San Isidro

Step 1: Heat the oven to 350°F and line two baking trays with baking paper. Warm 2 tablespoons of 2 tbsp mild olive oil with 1 tsp aniseed in a small pan for 1 minute, until fragrant, then let it cool and mix with the rest of ¼ cup mild olive oil.

Step 2: Whisk 3 eggs and 4 oz caster sugar until pale and slightly thickened, then whisk in the aniseed oil and 1 tsp lemon zest.

Step 3: Sift in 14 oz plain flour and 2 tsp baking powder and stir to a soft dough that just holds together. A common mistake is adding extra flour to stop it sticking; the rosquillas then bake hard.

Step 4: With oiled hands, roll walnut-sized pieces into ropes about 12 cm long and join the ends into rings, making the hole wide since it closes in the oven. Space them on the trays. You should get about 24.

Step 5: Bake for 15–18 minutes, until puffed, golden on top and firm when pressed. Cool on a rack.

Step 6: For the listas, whisk 5 ½ oz icing sugar and 2 tbsp lemon juice to a thick, pourable glaze. Dip the tops of half the rosquillas, let the excess drip off and leave for 30 minutes, until the glaze sets white and dry. Leave the tontas plain.