Qishan saozi mian

Step 1: Use a separate board for the raw pork. Put 14 oz pork belly or shoulder and 1 tbsp neutral oil in a wok over a medium heat and fry, stirring, for 8–10 minutes until the fat runs and the edges turn golden.

Step 2: Add ½ oz fresh ginger and ½ tsp five-spice powder and stir for 30 seconds, then pour in two-thirds of ½ cup Chinese aged vinegar (Shanxi or Qishan) and let it bubble until almost gone, about 3 minutes; the pork will smell sharp and sweet.

Step 3: Add 2 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tsp dark soy sauce and ½ tsp salt, lower the heat and stir in 2 tbsp Chinese chilli powder. Cook gently for 15 minutes, stirring often, until the pork is tender and sitting in a layer of red oil. The pork will be cooked well past 145°F (145 °F).

Step 4: Meanwhile, brush a non-stick pan with oil and cook 2 eggs over a low heat into a thin omelette, 1–2 minutes. Roll it up and cut into small diamonds or dice.

Step 5: In a pot bring 6 ¼ cups water to the boil with 1 tsp salt and the remaining 3 ½ tbsp Chinese aged vinegar (Shanxi or Qishan). Add 5 ½ oz firm tofu, 1 carrot and ¼ oz dried wood ear mushrooms and simmer for 5 minutes, then stir in 3 tablespoons of the red oil from the saozi.

Step 6: Cook 14 oz thin wheat noodles in a separate pan of boiling water until just tender, then drain. Overcooking is the common mistake; they should still bounce.

Step 7: Put a small nest of noodles into each small bowl, ladle over just enough broth to half-cover, then spoon over some saozi, the egg and 1 ¾ oz garlic shoots or chives. Serve several rounds, topping up the bowls as they empty.