Pyogo jeon (stuffed shiitake pancakes)

Step 1: Wipe 16 fresh shiitake mushrooms clean with damp kitchen paper rather than washing, and cut a shallow cross into the top of each cap for a decorative finish.

Step 2: Mash 3 ½ oz firm tofu with a fork, then add 4 oz pork mince, 1 spring onion, 1 clove garlic, 1 tsp soy sauce, ½ tsp salt, 1 tsp toasted sesame oil and ¼ tsp ground black pepper. Mix with your hand for a minute, until sticky and evenly combined.

Step 3: Dust the gill side of each cap with a little 2 tbsp plain flour. Press in a heaped teaspoon of filling, mounding it slightly and smoothing it flush with the rim. Common mistake: skipping the flour; the filling then slides off as soon as it hits the pan.

Step 4: Dip just the filled face in the remaining 2 tbsp plain flour, shake off the excess, then dip the floured face in 2 eggs.

Step 5: Heat 2 tbsp neutral oil in a frying pan over medium-low heat. Lay the caps in filling side down and fry for 4–5 minutes, until the egg is golden and the filling feels firm when pressed.

Step 6: Add the rest of 2 tbsp neutral oil, turn the caps and fry for 3 minutes more, until the mushroom tops are tender and glossy. The filling must reach 160°F in the centre (check one with a probe thermometer) and no pink should remain.

Step 7: Drain on kitchen paper. Stir 2 tbsp soy sauce, 1 tbsp rice vinegar and ¼ tsp Korean chilli flakes (gochugaru) together and serve with the warm jeon.

Step 8: For a vegetarian version, leave out the pork and use 220 g tofu, adding 1 tbsp finely chopped carrot and 1 tsp extra soy sauce to the filling. Fry exactly the same way, until the tofu filling is golden and hot right through.