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Pixian doubanjiang
郫县豆瓣酱: broad beans and red chillies fermented for months into Sichuan's deep red-brown chilli bean paste
Pixian, now part of greater Chengdu, has made doubanjiang since the 1600s: broad beans are moulded into a koji, chillies are chopped and salted in high summer, and the two are combined in huge open clay vats left in the courtyards to sun by day and breathe by night, stirred every morning for a year or more. The paste darkens from bright red to a glossy red-brown and becomes salty, savoury, deeply fruity and only moderately hot. Fried in oil until the oil turns red, it is the foundation of mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork and boiled fish in chilli oil. This home version takes about three months. Use koji spores for a clean bean ferment, and do not cut the salt: homemade bean pastes are low-acid, and the high salt (about 15%) is what makes them safe. Common mistake: sealing the jar airtight in the warm months; it needs air and daily stirring, so cover it with a cloth or loose lid. Normal: darkening colour, a winey-savoury smell, a little liquid. Discard if fuzzy mould spreads or grows coloured (green, black, pink) patches, or it smells putrid. It is ready when the paste is red-brown and tastes rounded, not raw. Chef's tip: fry it slowly in oil until it smells toasty.
- Total time
- 105 min
- Difficulty
- hard
- Serves
- 24
Ingredients
For the bean koji
- 1 ⅛ lb dried split broad beansskinless
- 3 ½ oz plain wheat flour
For the chilli mash
- 3 ⅓ lb fresh long red chillieserjingtiao if you can find them, or a mix of mild long red chillies and a few hot ones
- 8 oz saltabout 15% of the chilli weight
For combining
- 1 ¾ oz salt
- 1 ¼ cups cool boiled water
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Method
0/8 doneStep 1: Soak the 1 ⅛ lb dried split broad beans in boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain. Steam over a high heat for 10–15 minutes, until just tender but not mushy. Spread on a tray to cool to about 95°F.
15 minStep 2: Toss the beans with 3 ½ oz plain wheat flour until every bean is coated, then sprinkle over oz koji spores (Aspergillus oryzae) and mix again.
5 minStep 3: Spread 2 cm deep on a cloth-lined tray, cover loosely with a cloth, and keep at 28–90°F (an oven with only the light on) for 5–7 days, until the beans are covered with a yellow-green, sweet-smelling mould. Discard if you see black, pink or bright orange mould or smell rot.
Step 4: Meanwhile wash the 3 ⅓ lb fresh long red chillies and dry them completely for several hours. Pull off the stalks and chop them on a board into 5 mm pieces, or pulse briefly in a food processor.
25 minStep 5: Mix the chillies with 8 oz salt and pack into a sterilised jar (hot wash, then 10 minutes in a 250°F oven), pressing until juice covers them. Leave loosely covered in a cool place for the same 5–7 days, pressing down daily.
10 minStep 6: Dissolve 1 ¾ oz salt in 1 ¼ cups cool boiled water. Break the moulded beans into a clean 3 litre wide glass jar or clay crock, pour over the brine and stir. Cover with a cloth and leave in a sunny window or warm place for 2–3 weeks, stirring once a day with a clean, dry spoon, until the beans soften and smell savoury.
10 minStep 7: Stir the chilli mash into the beans. Cover the mouth with a cloth or loose lid and age for 2–3 months, sunning by day where possible and stirring every morning. The paste darkens from bright red to red-brown and smells winey and savoury; a little dark liquid on top is normal. Discard if fuzzy or coloured mould spreads or it smells putrid.
5 minStep 8: It is ready when deep red-brown and rounded in taste. Spoon into clean jars and keep in the fridge for up to 1 year, always with a clean dry spoon.
Nutrition per serving
- Calories
- 40 kcal
- Protein
- 2 g
- Carbs
- 6 g
- Fat
- 0 g
- Fibre
- 2 g
Nutrition values are estimates.
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Good to know
- How long does pixian doubanjiang take?
- About 105 minutes in total: 90 minutes to prepare and 15 minutes to cook.
- How many people does it serve?
- 24 as written. Change the servings above the ingredients and every amount scales to match.
- Is it vegan?
- Yes. It has no meat, fish, dairy or eggs.
- Is it very spicy?
- It has some heat. Use less chilli for a milder version, or more if you like it hot.
- Can I make it ahead?
- Yes. It keeps well, so you can cook it earlier in the day or the day before and reheat it.
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