Picarones

Step 1: Put 9 oz pumpkin, 9 oz sweet potato, 2 star anise and 1 tsp anise seeds in a pan with 600 ml water. Simmer over a medium heat for 15–20 minutes until very soft.

Step 2: Drain, keeping the cooking water, and pick out the star anise. Strain 120 ml of the water into a jug and let it cool to lukewarm (about 99°F, just warm on your wrist). Too hot and it kills the yeast.

Step 3: Stir ¼ oz dried yeast and 1 tbsp sugar into the lukewarm water and leave for 10 minutes until foamy. No foam means the yeast is dead; start again.

Step 4: Mash or blend the squash and sweet potato until completely smooth, then push through a sieve to remove any fibres. Let it cool to lukewarm.

Step 5: In a large bowl mix the purée, the yeast water and ¼ tsp salt. Add 13 oz plain flour gradually, beating with your hand or a wooden spoon for 5–8 minutes. The dough should be smooth, elastic, very soft and sticky, stretching in long strands when lifted.

Step 6: Cover and leave in a warm place for 1½–2 hours, until doubled and full of bubbles.

Step 7: Meanwhile make the syrup: put 9 oz chancaca, 1 cup water, 2 strips orange peel, 1 cinnamon stick and 4 cloves in a pan and simmer over a medium-low heat for 15–20 minutes, until it thickens to the consistency of maple syrup. It thickens more as it cools. Strain and keep warm.

Step 8: Heat 4 ¼ cups vegetable oil to 350°F in a deep, wide pan (a cube of bread should turn golden in 40 seconds). Set a bowl of salted water by the stove for your hands.

Step 9: Wet your hand, grab a lump of dough the size of an egg, push your thumb through to make a ring and drop it into the oil. It takes practice: the first few will be odd shapes, and that's fine. Peruvian cooks use a stick to stretch the hole wider in the oil.

Step 10: Fry 3–4 at a time for 2–3 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 11: Serve straight away, 3–4 per plate, drizzled generously with the warm syrup.