Patatas revolconas

Step 1: Put 2 ¼ lb potatoes and 1 bay leaf in a pan of cold water with half of ¾ tsp salt, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes, until a knife slides through. Drain, keeping a mugful of the water.

Step 2: Meanwhile, season 9 oz pork belly with the rest of ¾ tsp salt and fry in a dry frying pan over a medium heat for 15–18 minutes, turning, until the fat has rendered and the cubes are golden, crisp and crackling, and well over 160°F inside. Lift out onto kitchen paper.

Step 3: Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of fat, add 4 tbsp olive oil and fry 3 cloves garlic over a low heat until pale gold, about 2 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and stir in 2 tsp sweet smoked paprika and ½ tsp hot smoked paprika; a common mistake is doing this over the flame, where paprika scorches and turns bitter.

Step 4: Mash the potatoes roughly with a fork, pour in the paprika oil and beat with a wooden spoon, adding splashes of the cooking water until smooth, soft and evenly orange.

Step 5: Spoon into a warm dish, pile the torreznos on top and serve hot.