Pasta cacio e ova

Step 1: Bring 2 litres of water to the boil in the kettle, pour it into a pan over a high heat, add 1 tsp salt and cook 7 oz short pasta 1 minute less than the packet says, about 8 minutes, until it still has a little bite.

Step 2: Meanwhile beat 2 eggs with 1 oz pecorino or vegetarian hard cheese, ⅔ oz Parmigiano or vegetarian hard cheese and ½ tsp black pepper in a bowl until smooth.

Step 3: Scoop out a mugful of cooking water, then drain the pasta and tip it back into the empty pan off the heat. Leave it for 30 seconds so it stops spitting.

Step 4: Pour in the egg mixture with 3 tbsp of the cooking water and toss hard for 1 minute, until the egg turns into a creamy coating with no runny streaks. If it stays loose, put the pan over the lowest heat and keep stirring until the sauce clings and thickens.

Step 5: If you are cooking for anyone pregnant, a young child, an older person or anyone with a weakened immune system, use pasteurised eggs, or keep stirring over a low heat until the sauce is thick and steaming hot all through. Serve at once with more pepper.