Ossobuco alla milanese

Step 1: Pat 4 veal shanks dry and snip the thin membrane around the edge of each in 3–4 places. If you like, tie a piece of string around each one to hold its shape. Keep raw meat on its own board.

Step 2: Season with 1 tsp salt and ½ tsp black pepper, then dust both cut sides with 3 tbsp rice flour and shake off the excess.

Step 3: Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a wide, heavy casserole that holds the shanks in one layer over a medium-high heat. Brown the shanks for 4 minutes a side, until deep golden. Lift onto a plate.

Step 4: Lower the heat to medium, add 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 stalk celery to the fat and cook, stirring, until soft and lightly golden.

Step 5: Pour in ¾ cup dry white wine and boil for 2–3 minutes, scraping up the browned bits, until reduced by about half.

Step 6: Return the shanks in a single layer, marrow side up so it doesn't fall out. Add 1 ¾ cups chicken or veal stock and 1 bay leaf; the liquid should come about two-thirds of the way up the meat.

Step 7: Cover and braise over a very low heat, at the gentlest simmer, for 1½–2 hours, turning the shanks carefully once halfway and adding a splash of water if it gets dry. A common mistake is letting it boil: the meat tightens and turns stringy instead of melting. It is ready when the meat pulls easily away from the bone.

Step 8: Mix 1 lemon zest, 1 clove garlic and ½ oz flat-leaf parsley together on a board to make the gremolata.

Step 9: Lift the shanks onto warm plates and snip off any string. If the sauce is thin, boil it uncovered for a few minutes until syrupy, then spoon it over.

Step 10: Scatter the gremolata over the hot meat and serve with saffron risotto alla milanese or soft polenta, with a small spoon for the marrow.