Nyonya chap chye

Step 1: Soak 6 dried shiitake mushrooms in 300 ml hot water for 20 minutes, then slice, keeping the soaking water. Soak ⅓ oz dried wood ear fungus, ½ oz dried lily buds and 1 ⅜ oz dried beancurd skin (fu chok) in separate bowls of warm water for 15 minutes, and 1 ¾ oz glass noodles (tung hoon) in cold water for 10 minutes. Drain all, tearing the wood ear into pieces.

Step 2: Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a large wok or pot over a medium heat. Fry 5 cloves garlic for 30 seconds until pale gold, then add 2 tbsp fermented soybean paste (tau cheo) and stir for 1 minute, until it smells nutty and toasty. Common mistake: high heat here; the soybean paste and garlic scorch and turn bitter.

Step 3: Add the shiitake and wood ear and stir-fry for 2 minutes, then add 1 ⅓ lb white cabbage and 1 carrot and toss until the cabbage begins to wilt.

Step 4: Pour in 1 ¾ cups mushroom soaking water and water, add the lily buds, beancurd skin, 1 tbsp light soy sauce, 1 tsp sugar and ¼ tsp white pepper. Cover and simmer over a medium-low heat for 12 minutes, until the cabbage is soft and sweet.

Step 5: Stir in the glass noodles and cook uncovered for 3–4 minutes, until they turn clear and have absorbed most of the gravy. Taste for salt and serve with rice.