Nan-e sangak

Step 1: Mix the 14 oz wholemeal bread flour, 3 ½ oz strong white bread flour, 1 tsp instant dried yeast and 1 ½ tsp salt in a large bowl. Pour in the 1 ¾ cups warm water and stir with a wooden spoon for 3–4 minutes into a sticky, very soft dough. Cover and leave for 2 hours at room temperature, until doubled and bubbly.

Step 2: Spread the 4 ⅜ lb clean, smooth river pebbles (2–3 cm) in a single layer on a large baking tray, put it on the lowest oven shelf and heat the oven to its highest setting, at least 475°F, for 45 minutes.

Step 3: Divide the dough into 4 with wet hands. Lay one piece on a wet, upturned tray or floured peel and stretch it into a long oval about 1 cm thick. Press your fingertips into it all over to make deep dimples, and sprinkle with 2 tbsp sesame seeds if you like.

Step 4: Slide the dough onto the hot stones in one movement. Bake for 6–7 minutes, until the top is blistered and browned in spots and the base is crisp. A common mistake is opening the oven early; it lets the heat out before the bread sets.

Step 5: Pull the bread out, shake or pick off any stuck pebbles, and wrap it in a tea towel. Repeat with the rest, reheating the stones for 5 minutes between loaves. Eat warm the same day.