Jingisukan

Step 1: Put 1 tbsp mirin in a small pan and bubble for 30 seconds to drive off most of its alcohol, or for an alcohol-free sauce leave it out and use an extra 1 tsp sugar. Take off the heat and stir in 4 tbsp soy sauce, ½ apple, 2 tbsp onion, 1 clove garlic, 1 tsp fresh ginger, 1 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp lemon juice and 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds. Leave for 15 minutes so the flavours mingle, then divide into small bowls.

Step 2: Pat 1 ⅛ lb lamb shoulder or leg dry and spread it out on a plate. Arrange 7 oz bean sprouts, 1 onion, 7 oz white cabbage, 5 ½ oz pumpkin or kabocha squash and 2 green pepper on a platter.

Step 3: Heat the domed pan, or a large heavy frying pan, over a medium-high heat for 3 minutes. Rub it all over with ⅔ oz lamb fat or vegetable oil held in tongs and leave the fat on the top of the dome.

Step 4: Pile some of the vegetables around the rim, starting with the pumpkin and onion, which take longest. Cook for 4–5 minutes, turning, until the pumpkin starts to soften.

Step 5: Lay a few slices of lamb on the top of the dome (or the hottest part of the pan). Common mistake: covering the whole pan with lamb at once. The meat stews in its own juice instead of browning; cook only as much as you'll eat in the next couple of minutes.

Step 6: Grill the lamb for 1–2 minutes a side, until browned outside and 145°F/145 °F inside for medium, or longer if you prefer it well done. Rest it on the vegetables at the rim for 1 minute, where the juices run into them.

Step 7: Dip the lamb and vegetables in the sauce and eat with 1 ⅓ lb hot cooked Japanese short-grain rice. Keep adding fresh vegetables and lamb to the pan as you go, adding the bean sprouts and cabbage last as they only need 2–3 minutes.