Japanese cheesecake

Step 1: Heat the oven to 325°F (275°F fan). Line the base and sides of a 20 cm round cake tin (not loose-bottomed, or wrap the outside in a double layer of foil) with baking paper, letting the paper stand 5 cm above the rim.

Step 2: Put 9 oz full-fat cream cheese, 1 ¾ oz butter and ½ cup milk in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir for 5 minutes until completely smooth. Take off the heat and cool for 5 minutes.

Step 3: Whisk in 6 egg yolks one at a time, then sift in 2 ⅛ oz plain flour and ⅔ oz cornflour and whisk until smooth. Stir in ½ lemon and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Strain through a sieve into a large bowl to remove any lumps.

Step 4: In a very clean bowl, whisk 6 egg whites with ¼ tsp cream of tartar until foamy. Add 4 ½ oz caster sugar a spoonful at a time and keep whisking until the meringue holds soft-to-medium peaks that bend over at the tip. Stiff peaks make the cake crack.

Step 5: Whisk a third of the meringue into the cheese mixture to loosen it, then gently fold in the rest in two batches with a large spatula, until no white streaks remain. Be gentle; the air is what makes the cake rise.

Step 6: Pour into the tin and tap it on the worktop twice to burst big bubbles. Stand the tin in a deep roasting tray and pour in hot water to come 2 cm up the sides.

Step 7: Bake for 25 minutes at 325°F, then turn the oven down to 275°F (250°F fan) and bake for 45–50 minutes more, until risen, golden on top and the middle springs back when pressed lightly.

Step 8: Turn off the oven and leave the cake inside with the door slightly open for 15 minutes so it cools slowly and doesn't sink.

Step 9: Lift out of the tin by the paper and peel the paper away while still warm. Brush with 2 tbsp apricot jam for a shine, or dust with 1 tsp icing sugar. Eat slightly warm, when it's at its most jiggly, or chill for a denser, creamier cake. It keeps for 3 days in the fridge.