Göyərti qutabı

Step 1: Mix 10 ½ oz plain flour, ½ tsp salt and ¾ cup warm water and knead for 7–8 minutes into a smooth, medium-soft dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes, until it feels relaxed and stretchy.

Step 2: Put 9 oz spinach, 1 ¾ oz sorrel, 1 oz dill, 1 oz coriander and 4 spring onions in a bowl but do not salt them yet.

Step 3: Divide the dough into 12 balls the size of a walnut. On a lightly floured surface roll each one into a very thin round, about 20 cm across and 1 mm thick.

Step 4: Now season the greens with ¾ tsp salt and ¼ tsp black pepper and toss. Spread 2 tablespoons in a thin layer over half of one round, leaving a 1 cm edge. Fold the other half over and press the edges firmly, then trim with a saucer or crimp with a fork.

Step 5: Heat a large dry frying pan or saj over a medium-high heat. Cook the qutab one or two at a time for 1–1½ minutes per side, until the dough is dotted with brown blisters and the greens inside look bright and steaming.

Step 6: As each comes off, brush it straight away with 1 ¾ oz butter and stack on a plate; the stack softens the edges. A common mistake is cooking them on too low a heat: the dough dries before it browns and turns leathery.

Step 7: For pumpkin qutab (balqabaq qutabı): fry 1 onion in a little butter until soft, add 1 ⅛ lb pumpkin or butternut squash and cook for 10 minutes until dry and soft, then stir in 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds, ¼ tsp ground cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Fill and cook exactly as above.

Step 8: Serve hot, sprinkled with 2 tsp sumac, with 7 oz plain yogurt for dipping.