Gorditas de migajas

Step 1: Mix 5 ½ oz pork crackling (chicharrón) with 2 ⅛ oz asiento (unrefined pork lard) and ¼ tsp salt into a crumbly, moist paste.

Step 2: Mix 14 oz masa harina and 1 tsp salt, then work in 2 cups warm water until the dough is soft and smooth, like play dough, and doesn't crack when pressed. Cover with a damp cloth.

Step 3: Roast 3 tomatoes and 3 dried chiles de árbol in a dry pan over a medium heat, the chillies for only 20 seconds, the tomatoes until blistered and soft. Blend with 1 clove garlic and ½ tsp salt.

Step 4: Roll 12 balls of dough. Flatten one in your palm into a thick cup, put a heaped tablespoon of filling in the middle, close the dough around it and pat it into a disc about 10 cm across and 1 cm thick. Repeat with the rest.

Step 5: Cook the gorditas on a dry comal or heavy pan over a medium heat, turning every couple of minutes, until both sides have brown spots and they puff slightly. The most common mistake is a pan that is too hot: the outside scorches while the centre stays raw and pasty.

Step 6: While hot, slit each gordita open along one side like a pitta. Spoon in salsa, ½ white onion, 1 handful coriander and 2 ⅞ oz queso fresco or feta, and eat at once.