Giò thủ (pressed pork roll)

Step 1: Scrub 1 ⅛ lb pork ears, 14 oz pork tongue and 14 oz boneless pork cheek meat with 1 tbsp salt, rinse, and singe or shave off any hairs on the ears.

Step 2: Blanch the meat in boiling water with half the 1 ⅜ oz fresh ginger for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse in cold water.

Step 3: Cover with fresh water, add the rest of the ginger and 1 tbsp salt, bring to the boil and simmer for 45–60 minutes, until a skewer slides easily into the tongue and cheek, the ears are tender but still crunchy, and the thickest piece reads above 160°F.

Step 4: Plunge the meat into iced water for 10 minutes, then peel the rough skin off the tongue with a small knife.

Step 5: Slice all the meat into thin strips about 3 mm thick, keeping the pieces in the fridge if you are not cooking straight away.

Step 6: Heat 1 tbsp neutral oil in a wok over medium heat and fry 4 shallots for 2 minutes until golden.

Step 7: Add the sliced meat, ⅞ oz dried wood ear mushrooms, 3 tbsp fish sauce and 1 tbsp black peppercorns and stir-fry for 8–10 minutes, until everything is piping hot, glossy and the pan juices turn sticky.

Step 8: Line a 1-litre loaf tin, giò mould or sturdy cylinder with 3 banana leaves and pack the hot filling in tightly, pressing down with a spoon after each layer. Common mistake: letting the filling cool first; the gelatine sets too early and the slices crumble.

Step 9: Fold the leaves over, set a weight of about 1.5 kg on top (a few cans) and leave to cool for up to 1 hour, then chill with the weight on for at least 8 hours, until firm.

Step 10: Unwrap and cut into thin slices with a sharp knife; serve cold with 4 tbsp fish sauce with lime and chilli. Keep wrapped in the fridge for up to 5 days, or freeze for 1 month.