Frittatina di pasta

Step 1: Melt 2 ⅛ oz butter in a pan over a medium heat, stir in 2 ⅛ oz plain flour and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in 2 ½ cups whole milk a little at a time and simmer, whisking, for 6–8 minutes, until very thick. Season with ¼ tsp ground nutmeg and 1 tsp fine salt.

Step 2: Cook 10 ½ oz bucatini in well-salted boiling water for 2 minutes less than the packet says; add 4 oz frozen peas for the last 2 minutes. Drain well.

Step 3: Tip the pasta into a large bowl and mix in the béchamel, 5 ½ oz cooked ham, 2 ⅛ oz Parmigiano Reggiano, 3 ½ oz provola or low-moisture mozzarella and ½ tsp black pepper until every strand is coated.

Step 4: Line a tray with baking paper and set an 8–9 cm ring (or a cut-down tin) on it. Pack in the pasta about 3 cm deep, press firmly, lift off the ring and repeat to make about 8 rounds. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight, until firm.

Step 5: Whisk 7 oz plain flour with 1 ¼ cups cold water into a smooth batter like thick cream. Spread 5 ½ oz fine dry breadcrumbs on a plate.

Step 6: Dip each cold round in the batter, let the excess drip off, then press into the crumbs on all sides.

Step 7: Pour 4 ¼ cups sunflower or peanut oil into a deep, heavy pan, no more than a third of the way up the side, and heat to 350°F. Check with a thermometer, or drop in a cube of bread: it should brown in about 60 seconds. Never leave hot oil unattended.

Step 8: Fry 2 or 3 at a time for 5–6 minutes, turning gently, until deep golden and piping hot in the centre (the ham and cheese must be steaming). Common mistake: frying them warm from the pan; soft rounds fall apart and leak béchamel into the oil.

Step 9: Drain on kitchen paper and rest for 3 minutes before eating; the centre is very hot.