Fafda

Step 1: Mix 7 oz gram flour (besan), ½ tsp carom seeds (ajwain), ¼ tsp ground turmeric, ¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda and ⅝ tsp salt in a bowl. Rub in 2 tbsp vegetable oil, then add ¼ cup water a little at a time to make a firm dough.

Step 2: Knead hard with oiled knuckles for 5 minutes, until smooth and pliable. Cover and rest for 10 minutes.

Step 3: For the sambharo, heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a small pan over a medium heat, add ½ tsp mustard seeds and let it pop, then add 4 green chillies, the rest of the turmeric, 5 ½ oz green (unripe) papaya and 1 carrot. Toss for 1 minute only, so it stays crunchy, then take off the heat and stir in 1 tbsp lime juice and the rest of the salt.

Step 4: Pour 3 ¼ cups vegetable oil into a deep, heavy pan so it comes no more than a third of the way up the sides, and heat it to 350°F on a thermometer; without one, a cube of bread should turn golden in about 60 seconds. Never leave the hot oil unattended.

Step 5: Roll a walnut-sized piece of dough into a short log. Put it on a lightly oiled wooden board and, pressing firmly with the heel of your hand, push it away from you in one long stroke so it stretches into a thin strip about 15 cm long. Lift it off with a flat knife. Common mistake: pressing too lightly; thick strips fry hard instead of crisp.

Step 6: Fry 4–5 strips at a time for about 2 minutes, turning, until the bubbling slows and they are crisp and pale gold, not brown. Drain on kitchen paper.

Step 7: Fry 6 fat green chillies in the same oil for 30 seconds, until blistered, and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Serve the fafda with the sambharo and chillies.