Fabada asturiana

Step 1: Drain the soaked 1 ⅛ lb dried fabes or large dried white beans. Put them in a wide, heavy pot in an even layer with the drained 9 oz lacón or smoked ham hock, the 7 oz pork belly, 2 Asturian or cooking chorizo, 2 Asturian morcilla (smoked blood sausage), ½ onion and 2 cloves garlic on top.

Step 2: Pour in the 10 ½ cups cold water so it covers everything by about 3 cm. Bring slowly to the boil over a medium heat, about 15 minutes, and skim off the grey foam and some of the orange fat that rises.

Step 3: As soon as it boils, pour in a small glass (about 100 ml) of extra cold water to stop the boil. Asturians call this 'scaring' the beans (asustar); it keeps the skins on.

Step 4: Lower the heat so the pot barely trembles, add the 1 pinch saffron threads and ½ tsp sweet pimentón (Spanish paprika), and cook, uncovered or half covered, for 2 hours. 'Scare' the beans with a splash of cold water two more times along the way, and add water if the beans begin to poke out of the broth. Common mistake: stirring with a spoon. It breaks the beans; instead, hold the pot by its handles and gently swirl it now and then.

Step 5: Check the beans: they are done when they're creamy and soft all the way through but still whole. The pork belly and lacón should be cooked through and tender enough to cut with a spoon. If not, cook for 15–20 minutes more.

Step 6: Lift out the meats and sausages, slice them and either return them to the pot or serve on a separate plate. Remove the onion. Taste and add 1 tsp salt only now if needed; the cured meats are already salty.

Step 7: Turn off the heat and rest the fabada for 15 minutes so the broth thickens. Serve in deep bowls with bread. To make ahead, cool within 2 hours, refrigerate and keep for up to 3 days; reheat gently, adding a splash of water, until piping hot.