Coppia ferrarese

Step 1: Mix 3 ½ oz plain flour, ¼ cup water and oz instant dried yeast into a firm little dough. Cover and leave for 1 hour, until puffy.

Step 2: Put the starter in a bowl with 14 oz plain flour, ¾ cup water, 3 ½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil, 1 tsp barley malt syrup, ⅛ oz instant dried yeast and ⅓ oz salt. Mix, then knead for 10 minutes into a very firm, smooth dough; it will feel much stiffer than ordinary bread dough.

Step 3: Flatten the dough and pass it through a pasta machine on the widest setting. Fold it in half and pass it through again; repeat 8–10 times, until it is silky and satiny. (Without a machine, roll and fold it with a rolling pin for 10 minutes.)

Step 4: Wrap and rest the dough for 30 minutes so it relaxes.

Step 5: Divide into 16 pieces of about 50 g. Roll or pass each through the machine into a thin ribbon about 25 × 7 cm and 2 mm thick.

Step 6: Take one ribbon and roll it up tightly from one short end towards the middle, pulling it slightly as you go, so it forms a tight, tapered spiral. Do the same from the other end, stopping 2–3 cm from the middle, so you have two horns joined by a flat strip. Repeat with all the ribbons.

Step 7: Lay two pieces across each other in an X on a lined tray, overlapping at the flat strips, and press the centres firmly together with your fingertip so they bake as one. Gently splay the four horns.

Step 8: Cover loosely and prove for 45–60 minutes, until slightly puffy in the middle; the horns hardly rise. Don't leave them much longer, or the spirals unwind.

Step 9: Meanwhile heat the oven to 425°F (400°F fan). Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the horns are deep golden brown and crisp and the centre springs back lightly when pressed.

Step 10: Cool on a rack. They stay crisp for 2–3 days in a paper bag; refresh in a hot oven for 3 minutes.