Chettinad chicken

Step 1: In a dry frying pan over a medium-low heat, roast 6 dried red chillies, 1 ½ tbsp coriander seeds, 1 ½ tsp black peppercorns, 1 tsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, 1 tsp white poppy seeds, 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, 3 green cardamom pods, 1 star anise and 1 tsp kalpasi (black stone flower) for 3–4 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker. Common mistake: roasting on a high heat — burnt spices make the whole curry bitter.

Step 2: Add 4 tbsp grated coconut and roast for 2 minutes more until it turns light golden. Tip onto a plate, cool for 5 minutes, then grind to a smooth paste with about 100 ml of the 1 cup water.

Step 3: Heat 4 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil in a heavy pan over a medium heat. Add 2 sprigs curry leaves and, after a few seconds, 2 onions. Fry for 8–10 minutes until golden brown.

Step 4: Add 1 ½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute, then add 2 tomatoes, ½ tsp ground turmeric and 1 ½ tsp salt and cook for 5 minutes until soft and pulpy.

Step 5: Add 2 ¼ lb chicken, bone in and stir over a medium-high heat for 5 minutes until the pieces are sealed and no longer pink outside.

Step 6: Stir in the ground masala and fry for 3 minutes, then add the remaining water. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer over a low heat for 20–25 minutes, stirring now and then, until the chicken is cooked through: the juices run clear and the thickest piece reads 165°F (165 °F).

Step 7: Uncover and simmer for a few minutes until the gravy is thick and oil floats on top. Rest for 5 minutes, scatter with 2 tbsp coriander leaves and serve.