Chana ghassi

Step 1: Put the drained 12 ½ oz black chickpeas (kala chana) in a pressure cooker with 5 cups water and 1 ½ tsp salt and cook for 6–7 whistles (about 25 minutes), or simmer in a covered pot for 1¼–1½ hours. They are done when one squashes easily between your thumb and finger. Keep the cooking water.

Step 2: Heat 1 teaspoon of ⅜ tbsp coconut oil in a frying pan over a medium-low heat. Roast 6 dried Byadgi chillies, 2 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tsp cumin seeds, ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds and ½ tsp black peppercorns, stirring, for 2–3 minutes, until the coriander smells toasty and the fenugreek turns a shade darker (not black, or it goes bitter). Tip into a blender.

Step 3: In the same pan, roast 4 oz fresh grated coconut, stirring all the time, for 6–8 minutes, until it is evenly reddish brown and smells like toasted nuts.

Step 4: Add the coconut to the blender with ½ tsp ground turmeric, ½ oz tamarind pulp and about 250 ml of the chickpea cooking water. Blend to a very smooth, thick paste, scraping down the sides.

Step 5: Stir the paste into the chickpeas and their remaining cooking water and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy thickens enough to coat a spoon and a little oil shows on the surface. Add hot water if it gets too thick and taste for salt.

Step 6: Heat the rest of 2 ⅛ tbsp coconut oil in a small pan over a medium heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds; when they pop, add 1 onion and fry until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Add 15 curry leaves for the last few seconds.

Step 7: Pour the tempering over the ghassi, stir, and rest for 5 minutes before serving with neer dosa, appam or rice. It tastes even better the next day.