Avial

Step 1: Put the hardest vegetables in a wide, heavy pan first: 3 ½ oz elephant foot yam, 1 raw (green) banana and 2 drumsticks (moringa pods) if using, with ¼ tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp salt and ¾ cup water. Cover and cook on a medium heat for 5 minutes.

Step 2: Add 1 carrot, 2 ⅞ oz green beans and 5 ½ oz ash gourd or chayote, stir gently, cover and cook for 5–6 minutes more until everything is just tender when pierced but still holds its shape. Most of the water should have gone; if there's a lot left, cook uncovered for a minute.

Step 3: Meanwhile, grind 4 oz fresh grated coconut, 3 green chillies and 1 tsp cumin seeds with 2–3 tablespoons of water to a coarse paste, pulsing rather than blending smooth. Avial's coconut should have texture.

Step 4: Add the coconut paste to the vegetables and fold through gently with a flat spoon, so the batons don't break. Cook on a low heat for 2–3 minutes until the raw coconut smell goes.

Step 5: Take the pan off the heat and wait 1 minute, then fold in 5 ½ oz plain yogurt (curd). Adding curd over the flame makes it split and go grainy.

Step 6: Drizzle 2 tbsp coconut oil over the top and scatter with 15 fresh curry leaves crushed in your hand. Cover with a lid for 5 minutes so the raw oil and leaves perfume the dish, then mix gently and serve warm with rice.