Akashiyaki (Akashi egg and octopus dumplings)

Step 1: Heat the 3 ¾ cups water and ⅓ oz kombu (dried kelp) over a medium heat and remove the kombu just before it boils. Add the ⅔ oz dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi), turn off the heat, wait 3 minutes and strain. You should have about 800 ml of dashi.

Step 2: Measure 300 ml of the dashi into a jug and let it cool to room temperature for the batter. Season the rest with the 1 tsp light soy sauce (usukuchi) and ½ tsp salt and keep it warm for dipping.

Step 3: Whisk the 1 ⅜ oz plain flour, 1 ⅜ oz wheat starch (jinko) or cornflour and ¼ tsp salt in a bowl. Gradually whisk in the cooled dashi until smooth, then whisk in the 4 eggs. The batter should be very thin, like single cream.

Step 4: Heat an akashiyaki or takoyaki pan over a medium heat. Brush every hollow and the flat surface between them generously with 3 tbsp vegetable oil.

Step 5: Stir the batter, then pour it into the hollows right to the top; it is fine if it runs over a little. Drop a piece of 4 oz cooked octopus into each hollow.

Step 6: Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the edges look set and the bottoms are pale golden. Common mistake: turning too early. The batter is far softer than takoyaki batter, and it will tear and run if the bottom has not set.

Step 7: Using a skewer, turn each ball a half turn, tucking the overflow underneath. Cook for 1 minute, then turn again to close the ball. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, turning often, until puffed and lightly golden on the outside but still soft when pressed; the egg should be fully set inside.

Step 8: Slide the balls onto a board or plate. Oil the pan again and cook the rest of the batter the same way.

Step 9: Ladle the warm dipping broth into small bowls and add the 2 tbsp mitsuba or spring onion. Dip each ball into the broth before eating, taking care: the centres are very hot.