Chicken 65 was born in Chennai's military hotels in the 1960s and is now on every Tamil bar-snack, biryani-shop and wedding-starter menu, eaten hot with onion rings and lemon. Boneless chicken is marinated in red chilli, ginger-garlic and lemon, fried crisp, then tossed in a tangy seasoning of yogurt, green chilli and curry leaves. The mistake is crowding the pan, which drops the oil temperature so the chicken steams and the coating turns soggy; fry in small batches. For a vegetarian gobi 65, use 500 g cauliflower florets blanched for 2 minutes and dried, in the same marinade. Chef's tip: let the marinated chicken rest at least 30 minutes, and add the flour only just before frying so the coat stays light.