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Recipes with thick soy paste

4 recipes that use thick soy paste, with photos, step-by-step instructions and cook times. The quickest, Taiwanese grilled corn, takes 35 minutes. It is most often cooked with garlic, chilli sauce and rice flour.

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Da chang bao xiao chang

'Big sausage wraps small sausage' is one of the most photographed snacks at Shilin and Raohe night markets in Taipei. A plump, garlicky glutinous-rice sausage is grilled until crisp, split like a hot-dog bun and stuffed with a sweet Taiwanese pork sausage, pickled cucumber, sliced raw garlic, basil and a smear of sauce. This home version shapes the sticky rice in cling film instead of casing, so you do not need intestines. The Taiwanese sausage is pork and must be cooked through. Contains soy and peanuts. Chef's tip: chill the steamed rice log overnight; it slices and grills cleanly and holds its crust.

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Taiwanese grilled corn

At Raohe and Shilin night markets the grilled-corn stalls are easy to find: look for the queue and the smoky, sweet smell. Cobs are par-cooked, then turned slowly over charcoal while the cook brushes them with a dark glaze of sacha sauce, thick soy paste, garlic and chilli, layer after layer, until the kernels are sticky, slightly charred and deeply savoury. It is eaten hot from a paper sleeve while walking the market. Sacha (shacha) sauce, a Taiwanese barbecue paste, usually contains dried fish and shrimp; vegetarian sacha is sold in Asian shops. Contains soy, wheat and fish. Chef's tip: brush thin coats and turn often; one thick coat burns before the corn chars.

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Tian bu la

Tian bu la takes its name from the Japanese word tempura, but in Taiwan it means fried fish-paste cakes, simmered in a light broth with chunks of daikon and drenched in a thick, sweet and gently spicy red sauce. Stalls in Ximending and at Ningxia night market ladle it into paper bowls with toothpicks for spearing, and it is a cheap, warming snack on a rainy Taipei evening. This version makes the fish cakes from scratch. Contains fish, egg and soy. Chef's tip: squeeze the fish paste through your fist and scrape it off with a wet spoon; wet hands and tools stop it sticking and give smooth cakes.

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A-gei

A-gei is the breakfast that people ride the MRT to Tamsui for. On Zhenli Street, below Aletheia University, small shops have been making it since the 1960s: a big square of fried tofu is cut open, stuffed with glass noodles simmered in soy and a light broth, sealed with a cap of fish paste, steamed until set, and served in a pool of sweet chilli sauce, often with a bowl of fish-ball soup. The name comes from the Japanese aburaage, fried tofu. It is soft, savoury and slurpy. Contains soy, fish and wheat. Chef's tip: pack the noodles in firmly; loose filling soaks up the sauce and the pocket collapses.

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Goes well with thick soy paste