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Recipes with sunflower oil or butter

3 recipes that use sunflower oil or butter, with photos, step-by-step instructions and cook times. The quickest, Eshkeneh, takes 30 minutes. It is most often cooked with egg, turmeric and barbari or lavash bread.

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Eshkeneh

Eshkeneh is the soup of the cold north-west, cooked in Tabriz kitchens on winter evenings when there is little in the house but onions, eggs and dried fenugreek. The onions are fried very slowly until sweet and brown, a spoon of flour and turmeric thickens the broth, and eggs are dropped in to poach at the end; a little sour from lemon or dried sour cherries balances it. Azerbaijani families crumble barbari or lavash into their bowls so the bread soaks up the broth. A common mistake is rushing the onions, which leaves the soup thin and harsh rather than mellow and golden. Chef's tip: add the dried fenugreek with the flour, not before, because it scorches quickly and turns bitter.

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Baghala ghatogh

In Rasht and the villages of Gilan, baghala ghatogh is cooked in late spring when the slender local broad beans called pach baghala are in the markets, and later in the year with frozen ones. The beans are simmered in their thin skins with a great deal of garlic and dill, then eggs are cracked on top and left to set softly, and the whole pan is eaten with plain kateh rice and a few pickled garlic cloves. It is humble, green and fragrant. A common mistake is stirring the eggs right in, which turns the stew grey; leave them whole so the yolks stay just runny. Chef's tip: cook the dill in butter or oil before the water goes in; it blooms and tastes far deeper than dill added at the end.

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Sir ghelyeh

In early spring, when the rice fields of Gilan are still wet and the markets of Rasht fill with bundles of green garlic, families make sir ghelyeh: young garlic stems and leaves fried slowly with herbs and turmeric, then set with eggs. It is a quick lunch with kateh rice, eaten with a pickle on the side, and it smells of the whole season. The common mistake is frying the green garlic on a high heat, which burns the edges and leaves it bitter instead of sweet. Out of season, use the swap in the ingredients. Chef's tip: a small splash of verjuice or lemon juice just before the eggs go in lifts the whole pan.

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Goes well with sunflower oil or butter