Kulebyaka
Merchant feasts in old Moscow were judged by their kulebyaka, a long, plaited-top pie cut at the table to show neat stripes of filling, and it still appears at name days, Easter and New Year. Under a golden yeast crust sit layers of dill-scented rice, chopped egg, buttery mushrooms and pink salmon, each one seasoned separately. Slices are eaten warm with melted butter or a cup of clear fish broth. The usual slip is assembling with warm, wet fillings, which steam the base into a soggy mess; cool everything and keep the rice and mushrooms fairly dry. Bake until the salmon at the centre is opaque and reads at least 63 °C. Chef's tip: lay a thin pancake or a sheet of cooked rice under the fish; old cooks used blini as a sponge for the juices.



