Nelum ala curry
The ancient irrigation tanks of the eastern province, around Ampara and the Batticaloa hinterland, are covered in pink lotus, and when the water drops, villagers wade in to pull out the long, pale roots. Sliced into lacy wheels, they are cooked into this richly spiced curry with roasted curry powder, chilli, cinnamon, garlic and ginger, finished with coconut milk, and the slices keep a satisfying crunch that makes the dish feel almost meaty. It is served with rice on festival and almsgiving days, when many families eat only vegetables. Lotus root browns quickly once cut, so slice it straight into water with a squeeze of lime. The common mistake is boiling it too long before it goes into the curry, which turns it starchy and floppy; ten minutes is plenty. Chef's tip: choose fat, firm sections with unbroken ends, which keep mud out of the hollow channels and save a lot of rinsing.





