Taiwanese salty soy milk
Long before sunrise, the soy-milk shops of Yonghe, just across the river from Taipei, pour bowl after bowl of this savoury breakfast for taxi drivers, students and night-shift workers. Scalding unsweetened soy milk hits a splash of vinegar and soy sauce in the bowl and splits into trembling, cloud-like curds, somewhere between a soup and a soft tofu pudding. Shops usually add dried shrimp; this vegetarian bowl gets its savoury crunch from chopped pickled radish, scallion, chilli oil and torn pieces of youtiao, with a sesame flatbread on the side. Pouring soy milk that is merely warm is where most people go wrong: it must be just off the boil, or it stays thin and never curdles. Chef's tip: pour the milk from a height in one go and don't stir, so the curds form big, soft clouds.




