Pecheni chushki
In September, the smell of roasting peppers drifts across every Thracian town from Plovdiv to Haskovo, as families char crates of them on special drum roasters and barbecues for the winter. The simplest way to eat them is this salad: soft, sweet, smoky peppers torn into strips and dressed with crushed garlic, wine vinegar, sunflower oil and lots of chopped parsley. It is on the table with grilled kyufte at summer lunches and with white beans in the fasting season, and it tastes even better the next day. Where most people go wrong is rinsing the peeled peppers under the tap, which washes away the smoky juices; brush off the charred skin with your fingers instead. Chef's tip: save the sweet juice that collects in the bowl while the peppers steam and whisk it into the dressing.



